Bhutan–Our First Days in the Peaceful Kingdom

After a seemingly endless trip, our plane circled over a verdant river valley below, protected by a fortress of mountains, some with snow on their peaks. Looking out our windows, we got an aerial view of Thimphu, the tiny capital city of Bhutan, nestled next to a river in the valley below. The plane continued down the river valley that lies between two mountains until it arrived at the airport town of Paro.

Our Druk (Dragon) Airline plane approaches our landing site. What we see from our window confirms what we read that 90% of Bhutan is mountainous and 70% of the country is covered by native trees.

We landed right in front of what looked like a giant medieval monastery. To my surprise, the beautiful structure was the town’s airport, built several decades ago.

 

 

Very friendly officials checked our passports at this beautiful security counter. It’s been a long time since navigating an airport was so pleasurable. The painting is of the fifth king of the Kingdom of Peace.

As we exited the airport, our guide, 38-year-old Sangay Dendup, met us with a warm smile and a white silk Khatas scarf he gently placed around our necks. A khata symbolizes compassion and purity. The white color represents the pure heart of the giver of the scarf.

It felt good to be traveling with my dear friend, Heidi. We are definitely kindred spirits. Coincidentally, both of us had Swiss mothers, which made some of our quirks very familiar to each other.

Our first stop on our way to Thimphu was at the river monastery and chorten marking the auspicious meeting of the Paro and Thimphu rivers. We crossed the wooden bridge next to an centuries-old chain link bridge said to have been placed there by supernatural powers. We learned the ritual of turning the prayer wheels, large and small, that we encountered everywhere in Bhutan.

One of the many chortens with prayer wheels we see throughout the country.

Sangay turns the prayer wheel while chanting Om Mani Padme Om, meaning “Praise to the Jewel in the Lotus.”

The prayer flags are seen through the country. The prayer flags have multiple purposes, including sending good fortune with the wind, and the white ones to honor the dead

One of the countless monastery dotting the hillsides and ridge tops throughout the land.

 

Our first night at the Druk (Dragon) Hotel on the town square. The hotel gave the appearance that it was built several centuries ago, but was actually built in the 1960s. The architecture throughout Bhutan is unique and strikingly handsome, including new construction. In spite of the intermittent electricity and internet problems we had, we felt like royalty in our beautiful room and the delicious food served to us in the dining area.

 

.This This painting is the first time we met the royal family of the fifth Druk Gyalpa (Dragon King), who accompany visitors everywhere throughout Bhutan.

Depictions of this beloved and revered royal family are among the many reminders  of the extraordinary promise and delivery of happiness for all citizens, made by the 4th king, who is still alive and well, happily bicycling throughout the country. One of his many visions for his country resulted in the Gross National Happiness development philosophy, in contradistinction to the Gross Domestic Product which measure productivity.

We are told that the king and his father are humble leaders with a deep commitment to the wellbeing of their people, as measured by a happiness index. This Peaceful Kingdom is rich in the things that matter the most–health of the individual, health of the environment, sustainable economic development, preservation and promotion of culture and good governance.

Thimphu, the capital city of 100,000 inhabitants, famously known as the capital city without any traffic lights.

The stupa built in honor of the 4th king, the father of the current king.

The women preparing their vegetables for cooking engage me with smiles and a sense of humor.,

Red chilis are a favorite food in Bhutan and grows in abundance. Here the chilis are spread out on the rooftops to dry.

Sangay had told us that we would need to change our planned morning visit to a nearby monastery because all the monks in the country were convening at a month-long retreat for a special chanting of the texts of Buddha by the head abbot. Our disappointment quickly vanished when he told us that, in fact, we would now be hiking to the location of their retreat – at the feet of the 60-foot golden Buddha looking over Thimphu—and that we could attend and listen on our way. The Buddha was built in honor of the country’s beloved fourth king.

The monks from the entire region gathered daily for the teachings of the Buddha, chanted continuously by the head Abbott.

After listening to the chanting of the Buddha’s teachings, we took a hike, circumnavigating the enormous statue of the Buddha built on top of a high ridge overlooking the entire valley of Thimphu, seen from every direction. Along the way, Sangay, at out request, sang hauntingly beautiful songs. We begged him to keep singing. One of the songs he sang was from the movie, “A Yak in the Classroom,” about a farmer whose beloved yak died and how sad he was and what he did to honor his animal friend.

We toured the museum of natural medicine. Sangay suggested I come back to Bhutan to volunteer as a teacher of integrative medicine for a year.

We visited the School of Handicrafts. The handiwork was exquisitely beautiful.

 Traditional wood carving class

Sangay Dendup got is name given to him by monks in a monastery. where his parents brought him after birth. Sangay means a concept like Buddha or The Enlightened One, and Dendup means Achiever. Sangay has certainly lived up to his name in that he has devoted his life to service of others and lives devotedly by Buddhist principles.One of the things he taught us on the trip is that every moment is an opportunity to practice coming into the NOW. He taught us about the history of his country, about precepts of Buddhism, and what touched us the most is his example that hr lives every moment.

Addendum:

Dear Dr. Erica  M. Elliott,

On behalf of American Airlines, please accept our company’s formal thank you for the assistance you provided aboard flight 61 on October 30, 2022. We are all grateful that you were on board and freely offered your medical expertise when it was needed most. Dr. Elliott, without a doubt, you greatly improved a difficult situation.

As a tangible expression of our appreciation for volunteering your time and experience, we have added 30,000 bonus miles to your AAdvantage® account. This mileage adjustment should appear in your account in a few days. You can view your account via http://www.aa.com/aadvantage.

We realize your offer of assistance was not motivated by any potential reward. Nevertheless, we wanted you to know how much your efforts were appreciated — and that we look forward to serving you again soon. Dr. Elliott, we wish you well and value your AAdvantage® loyalty and support. It will be our privilege to welcome you aboard American when your plans call for travel by air.

Sincerely,

Natasha Narayan, MD, MPH
Corporate Medical Director 
American Airlines
Premise Health 

 

 


Comments

Bhutan–Our First Days in the Peaceful Kingdom — 75 Comments

  1. The sense of belonging and following a clear path is palpable from your description of these gentle people.
    And, just think what the world be like if we all switched to a National Happiness index.
    Being able to share your experience through this moving article has expanded my heart. I can only imagine how powerfully you were impacted.
    Are you considering returning to teach integrative medicine? What an honor to be invited. Not that I’m surprised. You are a natural for the job and it would certainly be a blessing for them.

    • Jane, I think you’d love it here. It’s like being in paradise. While the country is poor in material possessions, it is abundantly rich in what is important–strong family and community ties, beautiful land, equality among the people, healthy organically-grown food, clean air, clean water, beautiful architecture, beauty in everything they produce, beautiful dances and ceremonies….I could go on and on. I feel like most developed, wealthy nations have lost their way. I always enjoy your comments. Much love, Erica

  2. What an amazing experience added to your life. Living free of expectations is so rewarding! Happy for you and enjoying everything you share.

    Donna

  3. What a beautiful & inspiring journey. It was an incredibly joyful reminder of our own journey to Bhutan more than 10 years ago.Thank you for sharing your experience so beautifully. We look forward to more posts…
    Much love to you & Heidi…
    Peggy & Jerry

    • How wonderful that you have been to Bhutan. What a magical place. We are deeply moved by what we are seeing and experiencing. Many blessings. Erica

  4. Dearest Erica, my heart is full from feeling your words. So deeply inspiring… Gross National Happiness… WOW! I am inspired to start living like that in my little life and it may just be contagious??? 🌈💖

  5. Erica, Although I do not know you, any friend of Heidi’s is a friend of mine. I am so enjoying reading the details of your travel in Bhutan, a place I’ve longed to go. I look forward to reading your next installment. Thank you for finding the words to make your experiences palpable. Warmest wishes,
    Marsha

  6. Loving your journal reports and photos, Erica, and so grateful you are doing so. What a gift! I am so moved by how your quality of healing from such a pure heart opens so many doors to you, and then to others. This is such a teaching in itself! Then you share how this happens, the miracles of gratitude returned to you, completely unexpected, but graciously accepted. These stories are like joy-gems!! Of course, they would invite you to come live for a time among them and teach your wisdom!

  7. Nizhóní shideezhí, Ch’aa nanináago nił baa honeeni. Enjoy your trip, take care. Love your pictures and your comments!

  8. Erica, this looks just fabulous. I can’t believe how much you’ve done already! I’m so glad their new buildings are built in traditional styles rather than adopting the ubiquitous modern skyscraper which is so characterless. So happy to be on this journey with you and Heidi. Love to you both, Sally

    • I wish you were with us, Sally. We often talk about the tenth grade trio. You would love this country. Thinking of you and sending much love, Erica and Heidi

  9. Hi Erica,
    Much love to you on your journey. (Now I understand why you didn’t return my phone call today!!!)
    You will tell us about the adventure that occurred on flight 61 won’t you?

    • I wrote about the medical adventure on flight 61 on the prior blog post called “Bhutan Bound.” It’s a short blog that you might enjoy reading. Much love always, E

  10. Hello Erica. Thank you for sharing these days in Bhutan. What a wonderful country! I am glad that you are there with your dear friend and look forward to reading more of your journey!
    Blessings, Carol Carnicom

  11. Wow, Gross National Happiness! Would be a perfect model for the rest of the world especially the US, but greed and dishonesty and all that seem to be holding this country back. I understand Bhutan uses no chemicals on their food, etc.. They practice health and wellbeing. Love that they have a Natural Medicine Museum. Where else would it be? Thank you Erica for sharing your amazing adventure!

  12. I think you didn’t get my reply, so “she persisted.” You are, as always, my hero. It is gratifying that American Airlines acknowledged your assistance. Looking forward to continuing vicariously with you on your trip. Thank you.

  13. As usual, you are my hero. And how gratifying to see American Airlines appreciative action. (How’s that for alliteration?) Looking forward to the continuing journey.

    • If it wasn’t for your generosity, there’s no way I would be here. I think of you every day while we’re here. As you suggested, we visited the nunnery and spoke with the young nuns. I will blog about it. It was a very sweet experience. Much love and gratitude, Erica

  14. Thanks Erica.
    Happy to read this.
    Let’s see, beautiful mountainous country, friendly sweet people, lots of red chile, no traffic lights in biggest city.
    What a find!
    Thanks for taking Carolyn and me along.
    BTW, what’s the elevation range you are hiking?

  15. We are thrilled for you both and will follow your blog every step of the way! A truly remarkable adventure! Love to you and Heidi,
    Leslie & Richard

  16. Thank you so much for letting me take this amazing trip with you. You have a wonderful guide in Sangay and will learn and see so much through him. Love all of the photos and the information underneath them. Amazing what all you did on your first days in the Peaceful Kingdom. Look forward to seeing more photographs and learning more about Bhutan.

    How wonderful that American Airlines acknowledged your act of kindness on the plane.

    Sending big hugs and lots of love to you and Heidi.

  17. I am enjoying your travel story immensely. Thank you for sharing so eloquently and in such detail. The world could sure use what Bhutan has! Making the health and happiness of their people a top priority is sadly missing in much of the rest of the world. The peace and joy in Bhutan is coming through loud and clear in your photos and writing. Best wishes on the rest of your extraordinary trip.

    • Thanks so much for your lovely comment, Joanna. This is certainly a most amazing trip! It is exceeding my wildest expectation. Blessings to you, Erica

  18. What a scrumptious treat it is to wake up to these precious glimpses into the reality of a Peaceful Kingdom…I have only heard of and dreamt of visiting! Thank you for this generous gift and all blessings for your journey!

  19. What a blessing you are receiving and giving– to be in a land where sacred connection is lived 24/7. I leisurely took in every page and photo of your letter, letting luscious old feelings of a trip to Dharmsala flow through me. A return trip to teach for a year would indeed round out a fully human life. Erica, I’m so curious and concerned about how the Bhutanese are dealing with the whole Covid thing, hoping that “immunizations” were not made mandatory and that they saw through the narrative
    and presented a balanced picture to their people. Could you later, perhaps even after the travel, tell us what you observed?

    In deep peace, Bob

    • I love your comment, Bob. I wish you could experience this country someday. It is out of this world. Regarding covid, the country closed it’s borders, followed the rest of the world with a country-wide lockdown, and experienced only three deaths. I will ask Sangay if vaccines were mandated. Sending you many blessings. Love, Erica

  20. I am so enjoying your blog. Rikki. I wish I had be able to talk to you before you left. My husband and I lived in Thimphu for two years and have made 4 trips to Bhutan. We lived on the campus of Royal Thimphu College, in the hills outside Thimphu. I created a program where I travelled around the country teaching aspects of womens health and sexuality.
    There are many layers to Bhutan, and knowing you, I hope you will be able to have Sangay share some of that with you. Bhutan is making it more difficult for foreigners to come there to live and work, but with your skills,there are ways you might accomplish that…it’s a life changing experience.
    Happy travels and Tashi Delek!

    • Wow!! What an experience you had, Phyllis. Yes, I wish I had talked to you ahead of time. I got only two weeks notice that Bhutan was opening its borders to the unvaccinated, so Heidi and I rushed to get ready for the trip. We are learning so much from Sangay because we have him all to ourselves. Kadrin Cheyla!!! Hugs, Erica

  21. Ahhhhhh…THANK YOU. Dear Erica. Your sharing of your beautiful trip is such a gift! The photos are beautiful. WONDERFUL adventure and learning time, what a unique and lovely country.

  22. Wonderful. I think you should go for the volunteer year and send us all reports every week. I remember the movie about Bhutan Gross natural happiness. I have it somewhere and will try to dig it out to show our little group in Chama, alongside your story. I remember that time when there still was time for us to move toward happiness and away from the profit motive. Now its all hustle and fear, even in little old Chama (with one flashing traffic light).

    Please find out and if possible publish the place that their population policy has in the maintenance of their Gross National Happiness.

  23. Thank you Erica…I love this…I can feel the energy of Bhutan through the photographs…What a blessing…Continue having an extraordinary time!

  24. I enjoyed this so much!!!!! You bring joy and love and adventure and kindness wherever you go. Of course American Airlines wants to gift you 30,000 miles and Bhutan wants you to come back for a year! Love you so much!❤️

  25. So beautiful. Thank you for keeping us up to date on your trip.
    I’m touched by your guides Sangay Dendup’s approach to life.

    Much love

    Kim

    • I know you would just absolutely love this place, Kim. I hope you and Rosy will come to the Peaceful Kingdom sometime. Love and hugs, E

  26. Reading your blog, Erica, is like living inside of another’s dream. And all of this has transpired over just the very beginning of your adventure. I am thrilled to be along for the ride! Sending love to you and Heidi,
    Ellen

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