Africa—Chobe National Park

June 18th, 2018. At 5:30 am we prepare for our departure for Savuti, part of the Chobe reserve in northeastern Botswana. After coffee and a light breakfast we head out.

The main highway to our next destination in the bush.

This giraffe family seems to be on a mission. They are all headed in the same direction as we are.

The giraffes don’t seem to mind sharing their voyage with the wildebeests.

Giraffes are extremely graceful when they walk. They hold themselves erect like ballet dancers as they glide along the grasslands. They look like they would be easy prey but they’re not because of their ability to run fast and their powerful kicks. We saw a male giraffe that had no tail and no scrotum sacs. David speculated that a lion leaped up from behind and bit them off in an attempt to bring down the giraffe.

We saw a dead giraffe a few feet off the road. David said that the giraffe must have been killed by a competing male. They fight by banging their heads together. The carcass was bloated but intact. The vultures found the carcass first and had already eaten part of the head and neck before the lions, leopards, wild dogs and hyenas picked up the scent of death in the air.

In the safari vehicle I felt invisible to the animals, like being inside a burqa.

Time to take a break and get something to eat. These acacia bushes are a favorite food of giraffes.

This acacia tree, like many of the trees on the savannah, managed to grow beyond a bush in spite of the giraffes.

On our drive, we share binoculars, scanning for birds. We listen to them earnestly singing their own special songs. This bird is called a Bee Eater.

Not all the birds out here are ferocious raptors.This lilac-breasted roller is one of a multitude of brightly-colored, sweetly chirping birds.

What a bird watcher’s paradise! With 450 different kinds of birds in this region, each with it’s own special plumage and personality, there is an endless feast for the eyes to behold. This bird is called a Yellow Billed Hornbill.

Guinea fowl eating termites, their favorite meal. Guinea fowl walk nonchalantly in the road and get out of the way just in time to avoid getting run over. They are a food source for many animals—and people. They taste just like chicken, according to Peace Shakuma, our local guide.

We see termite condos scattered throughout the savannah.

A male Cape Buffalo stares at us passively as our vehicle rolls past him. The thick parts of the horn above his forehead are for banging heads with competing males.

Just before reaching our camping spot, we stopped our vehicle and watched a herd of cape buffalo standing around in a thicket. After a few minutes a yearling, looking perfectly healthy, walked away from the herd for a few yards and then he began to wobble and stumble around until he fell over onto his side. He flailed his legs trying in vain to stand up. Surprisingly, his herd did not come and gather around him for protection as they usually do. David explained that once a buffalo is down, the herd won’t intervene. He speculated that the yearling might have been bitten by a poisonous snake. Someone said they couldn’t stand watching the young buffalo die, so we drove onward to our camp site.

The next day we drove back to the scene of the buffalo yearling’s death. The only remains were pieces of hide. The big predators had gotten their fill. A lone jackal pulled at the bits of flesh left on the hide.

Jackals look like a cross between a fox and a coyote. They daintily trot around the savannah looking for something to scavenge.

These dwarf mongoose eat snakes and birds’ eggs. Jackals hunt the mongoose for food.

During the night we heard all sorts of animals sounds, including growling of lions. We saw the large lion prints in the mud. Even though the tracks were not fresh, it was a sobering sight. We didn’t dare leave our tents at night for fear of being eaten.

The next morning David and Peace said that we were going to find the lions. The mission turned out to be easier than we had expected.

As we drove along the sandy road, we saw a lioness’s tail stretched out and her body partly hidden in the thicket.

We drove the vehicle right next to the lioness and could see that she was devouring the thigh of an Eland, the largest of the antelope species.

The Eland antelope provided enough meat to feed the entire pride of lions, including the male, several lionesses, and the young lions. Here they are, lying in the shade, with massively distended bellies. David said that the enormous meal will last them several days.

A few more of the adult lions passed out in the shade, oblivious to our vehicle only a few feet from them.

I watched this cub trying to get milk from his sleeping mother. Three of her cubs managed to suckle as she slept, but the fourth cub was left out. He stood on his mother’s side, impatiently waiting for his turn to get some milk.

The male is in a stuporous state from gorging on the Eland meat.

Every once in a while the lionesses sit up to make sure that their cubs are safe.

For a few minutes this lioness is conscious of our presence and then rolls onto her side again and goes back to sleep.

This lioness was injured during the Eland hunt. She had a gash in her right flank, probably due to a kick from the Eland. She was uncomfortable and couldn’t sleep. I know what that feels like.

The next morning David wanted to go back to tracking leopards. I assume he found them more challenging to track than the lions. On the way, we saw many wondrous sights.

In the morning we encountered the same wildebeest herd we had seen the night before.

Baobab trees dot the savannah in Botswana. As a young girl, I read the delightful French series called “The Adventures of Tintin,” about a young boy and his dog who travel to Africa. Since then, the baobab tree became the quintessential symbol of African vegetation—in my mind.

A pair of Kudu, another of many species of African antelope. The meat is sought after by all the predators, including human.

We saw a scattering of lone male wart hogs and watched them wandering around, rummaging the ground for food

More zebras.

Mother zebra and suckling baby.

A lone ostrich stops eating for a few seconds to look over in our direction.

At last David spotted the leopardess that he was hoping to find. He recognized her from her markings and said that she was a young leopard whom he had been tracking since she was a cub. For many years he also tracked her mother.

David had a real fondness for this leopardess. He pursued her with dogged determination while we were in her territory. One time he followed her well into the evening after it got dark, using a handheld spotlight to follow her. He drove the safari vehicle as if it was an all-terrain tank, in hot pursuit of his leopardess.

We found the leopardess feeding on chunks of meat with her family of mothers and cubs.

On most trees, at the very top, you will see birds surveying the land. Some are eagles and vultures waiting to get their turn at scavenging after a kill.

We headed back to our campsite after another day in paradise.

The snake found near one of the tents. No one needed to be reminded to keep their tent zippered at all times.

Let me show you around our campsite where we’ve spent the last three nights.

Our dining hall

The kitchen area.

The staff generously offered to wash our dirty clothes each day.

Ironing in the bush the old way. Coals from the fire sit inside the metal iron.

I’d like to introduce you to the rest of the people on our trip.

There were 8 wonderful staff people to support our safari. These two men I got to know and appreciate—Ke Ke and Madhu.

My absolute favorite person on staff was Peace Shamuka, our tracker/guide who works with David Carson. He is kind, patient, extremely knowledgeable about life in the bush, and has a good sense of humor.

Becky Wiles comes from the Oaxaca area of Mexico where she went to retire after working in the naval shipyard in Washington state.

Paul Romaine divides his time between Oregon and Baja, Mexico.

Stan Berning and Meg MacDonald live in Santa Fe. Stan is an accomplished artist and Meg runs her own travel company.

Leila Vale and Louis Romero from Colorado. They met each other at a party and discovered that they both have Cuban parents. It was fun speaking Spanish with them.

Jim Quick from Baton Rouge. Jim had been on other trips with Deborah Stephens—like the whale trip in Baja— and wanted to taste more of what she offered.

As we sat around the campfire telling stories, someone said breathlessly, “Look,” while pointing to an open area behind our campfire. In the moonlight we saw, like a ghostly apparition, a large elephant walking slowly across the open area right behind us. After a few minutes passed, another apparition appeared—a giraffe walking in large and graceful strides. The scene looked like something out of the dreamworld. No one had their camera to capture this fleeting mystical moment.

June 21st. As the darkness turned into dawn, we sat around the morning campfire and reported the sounds we had heard the night before while in our tents. Some of us heard the high pitched sounds that zebras make when they are in distress. Others heard the growls of lions. And in the early morning we heard the hyenas. David explained to us that not far from where we had seen the animals in the nearby clearing, lions had killed a zebra. By morning the carcass was left to the hyenas.

Today we move our campsite deep into the Chobe Reserve, next to the Chobe River. The Chobe River area has the largest concentration of elephants in the world. This is the last leg of our safari. After that we go to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. I hope you can join me. This promises to be the most exciting part of the trip, given the concentration of wildlife.

Here’s a preview:

 

 


Comments

Africa—Chobe National Park — 31 Comments

  1. So wonderful to read your writings and view your photos. Thank you for sharing this this amazing and exciting and exotic adventure!

  2. Hello Erika/Rickie,

    My name is Monika McCoy. I’m a Board Certified Chiropractor although my work is more as holistic healer. I got your Blog info from Nita Vanderwerff. I’m planning a trip to Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe for next Year. I looks lie you are doing the mobile camping? Do you have a Safari group that you recommend? Any tips are greatly appreciated!
    Love your reflections. Thank you.

    Monika

    • Hello Monika, thank you for your feedback. I’m glad you enjoyed the posts. You are welcome to subscribe if you like. If you look under “categories” on the right side of the page, and click on “Medicine,” you will find lots of medical posts that you might find useful. I talk about cutting edge topics in medicine, I debunk industry-funded dogma, and I try to clarify topics that patients are confused about. Regarding the safari group I recommend, I recommend our group. Our leader is Deborah Stephans. Here is the link to her website—— https://www.timelessbaja.com and here is her email address———timelessjourneys@gmail.com This was one of the best trips I have ever taken in my life. All the best, Erica

  3. Wonderful sharing! Would love to know what species of snake that is in the picture, and who was brave enough to get that close to take it’s picture. Does the general rule apply in Africa; if it has a triangle shaped head it is venomous?
    Don’t get blown off any more toilets! 🙂 Happy travels. XO Jeraldine

    • It was a puff adder. I don’t know about the triangle being a sign of a venomous snake. I’ll have to look it up. So happy you enjoyed traveling with me!! Love, Erica

  4. Oh my, what a beautiful journal of your time there. Beautiful images, lovely story. Thank you for sharing. Such a pleasure to read and look at.
    hugs,
    Ranny

  5. Dear Erica, Your pictures and commentary make me feel like I’m right there with you! Thank you so much for sharing your journey with me. For once “tastes like chicken” actually makes sense 🙂 Love, Lauren

    • Thanks for the feedback, Lauren. Do you think that your daughter would enjoy the post, given all the animals? Love, Erica

  6. What fun! All those beautiful animals and birds (and one creepy snake)–looking forward to the next blog post.

    • You would love this trip, Margaret. It feels so good being in here. Thanks as always for your comments. Love, Erica

  7. This book of life you are writing is getting more and more amazing. I love that you let your followers participate in what you experience.
    To me, because I know you a little and have been reading your posts for some time, it almost feels like being with you on these trips, sans the snakes, or the cold in Antarctica 🙂

    • Hi Axel, I like that phrase you used, “The Book of Life.” And I love that you are with me on this trip—virtually. I hope Heidi came along as well. Love to you both, Erica

  8. Wow!!!!! A once in a lifetime adventurous trip for sure! Please thank everyone who is
    Helping you’ll so graciously! Gorgeous photos too….we love you Erica,
    Di and Erik

    • You are right, Di. People have been so gracious and generous with me in helping me out, given all my various impairments–especially the vision problems and the chemical sensitivities. The kindness brings tears to my eyes. Yes, I will be sure to thank everyone. And I’ll thank my own body for holding up so well too. Being in nature most of the time really made my body happy. Love and hugs, Erica

  9. I love this, Erica. Your pictures are so good and I particularly like the three zebras and the tall tree wit the vultures and eagle at the top. Victoria Falls is beautiful and when we were there many bungee jumpers toppling off the top of a ridge next to the falls. My memory fails me – don’t think it was a bridge. aren’t the people beautiful? I forgot to wish you Happy Birthday – you are having a party the whole trip. 🤩👍🎂. Ahhh, such lovely country and don’t you feel at home there?

    • It sounds like your memories are still fresh in your mind, even though it’s been so long ago. Yes, I LOVE this part of Africa that I’m experiencing and I love the people I’ve met so far, and yes, I do feel at home here. I am so thankful to be able to experience nature in the raw. For a nature girl like me, this is heaven. Love you, E

  10. What a great variety of wildlife you were able to see. I would imagine some sights had their own smells too! Looking forward to the next post! Carolyn sends her love. She thinks you are amazing.

    • That’s good that you remind me about the smells. Sounds, sights, and smells are important to included. Please tell Carolyn that I think she’s pretty amazing herself. Amazing she’s still on the planet–with all your love and support and her determination. Love you, E

    • It would be a fantastic trip for your whole family. But I suggest that it would be safest for you to stay at a regular safari lodge. I think camping at age 97 might be challenging, Alice—even though I know how amazing you are. Much love, Erica

    • Jackie, I’m so impressed that you can write in Hebrew. Are you at Middlebury College right now? Can you tell me what your comment means? Love you, Rickie

        • That’s impressive. Are you having a good experience? I know you’re supposed to be talking in Hebrew the whole month, but maybe you could tell me how you are in just a few English words. Love, Rickie

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