Africa—Okavango Delta

Our Africa adventure began with a late start due to vagaries of the weather over Atlanta where we had to spend the night and get on another plane for Johannesburg the following day. We made good use of our unwelcome delay and visited the impressive Martin Luther King Jr. National Park and listened to his inspiring speeches and sermons as we wandered around the grounds.

MLK’s family home growing up in Atlanta

Ebenezer Baptist Church where MLK and his father preached.

It’s June 12th. By luck and perseverance all seven of use were able to get a seat on board Delta Airlines’ once daily 16 hour flight to Johannesburg. Ellen had found us lovely lodging 20 minutes from the airport. We stayed in thatched roof cabins surrounded by lush vegetation.  For dinner I ate ostrich meat and vegetables, both surprisingly delicious.

Our driver gave me a “Happy Birthday” hug.

It’s June 14th. At last we’re on the final leg to our destination—Maun, Botswana, where our safari begins. I turned 70 today. Hard to believe. I never imagined I’d make it this far, given my history.

Did you know that there are 57 countries in Africa?

Beloved Botswana at last!! The 50 refers to when the country became independent from England in 1966.

We joined the rest of our small group in time for a celebratory dinner. I ate kudu for the first time, a large antelope, along with many delicious vegetables. We went around the table introducing ourselves—all thirteen participants, plus Deborah, our trip leader.

I managed to give away the huge slice of birthday cake in my right hand that Deborah thoughtfully arranged for.

Lodging in Maun. Joanie and Gordie helped me to hunt for a room at the lodge that didn’t have air permeated with pesticides and air freshener. I felt fortunate I was able to get a good night of sleep.

My dear friends, Joan Borysenko and Gordie Dveirin.

Our lovely trip leader, Deborah Stephens, who resides in Baja, Mexico, leads trips to Africa, as well as to remote places in Mexico for viewing whales, cave paintings, and exotic plants and animals.

We will be spending much of our days inside one of the two safari vehicles.

June 15th, our much anticipated departure day into the bush in the northern part of Botswana called The Okavango Delta where there is a heavy concentration of wildlife, including over 450 species of birds. The Okavango is the largest inland delta in the world. We will be camped on the eastern border of the Moremi Game Reserve.

Let me introduce you to Peace Shamuka on the left, hailing from Botswana, and David Carson from Zimbabwe on the right. Both men are extremely accomplished trackers and guides, having gone through four years of intensive training when they were young men. Their knowledge is vast and mind-blowing. They know how to think like the animal they are tracking.

Our first three nights we will stay on the Khwai River, part of the immense Okavango Delta, a pristine wilderness that offers an abundance of food and water for wildlife—even in the dry season. We will get to see the animals in their own natural environment.

This scene of the River Khwai is what we see right outside our tents for the next three days. We are in the dry season of winter. As water sources dry up, animals congregate around the remaining water holes, making the animals easy to spot. The wet season comes during the summer months around November and December.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These canvas tents will be our homes for the next 10 days. They hold two narrow cots with mattress and bedding.

We had to make sure we kept out zippers closed at all times to keep out the mosquitoes, monkeys, spiders, and snakes. One of the group saw a puff adder snake lying right next to Joanie and Gordie’s tent door—fortunately zippered tightly.

Ken Hughes and Ellen Kemper, my neighbors at my community, The Commons in Santa Fe, New Mexico.

Each tent has a canvas attachment to the back of the tent, accessed through the zippered flap, that serves as the “bathroom” with a hole dug in the ground over which stands a precarious toilet. On the other side of the roofless enclosure is a pole with a canvas bucket that can be filled with warm water for a camping-style shower.

In the middle of the night when I went through the zippered back of the tent to pee, the wind was gusting forcefully. As I sat on the toilet, the wind blew the structure down on top of me, toppling me and the toilet onto the ground, with the canvas on top of the pile. I called my roommate, Tina, for help. We couldn’t stop laughing at the comical scene.

My tent mate, Tina, from Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. We’re having a good time together. Tina is taking a year to travel the world. Africa is her starting point.

Another “bathroom” adventure occurred when the two men, Paul and Jim, who shared a tent, came back from an outing and found monkey poop on the “floor” of their “bathroom.” The monkeys obviously dropped down from the tree branches to check out the structure.

On our first day out in the bush, we focus our attention first on a den of wild dogs who are resting before they go on their next hunt.

The African painted dog, aka wild dog, is only found in the southern part of Africa.

The painted dogs lie together and den, until they are rested enough to go off hunting again as a pack.

The leader of the pack is ready to take off and look for a meal. Working as a pack, David said they are ferocious hunters and can bring down even large game by using teamwork.

In practically every tree there is an eagle or a vulture waiting for some action, with eyes scanning the horizon at every moment. Peace and David carefully watched the activity of these birds of prey to get a sense of what was happening and where. This eagle looks pretty scary.—photo courtesy Ken Hughes, along with the next two.

This Marabou stork looks less threatening.

African Fish Eagle, waiting for some action.

The impala are ubiquitous in this area. They are one of many types of antelopes found here and are the source of food for the large predators, like the lions, leopards, wild dogs and hyenas

This large antelope is called a Tsessebe.

Surely you must be wondering how we can get so close to the animals without them becoming fearful. These wild animals are so used to the safari vehicles that they don’t view them as a danger. We are not allowed to get out of the vehicles without the supervision of Peace or David so that we don’t appear like predators—or potential prey.

Sometimes it’s hard to know if a tree is dead or simply lost it’s leaves for the winter months. Many dead trees are scattered around the savannah from the floods several years ago.

This tree is dead from the elephants stripping the bark in search of its nutrients. When the tree is “rimmed” and the bark stripped in a circle, the tree will surely die because it’s “circulation” has been disrupted and it cannot pull up nutrients from the soil.

The first of many giraffes that we spotted. Many of these photos (certainly not all) I’ve taken with my iPhone camera, which tells you how close the animals let us get to them.

 

 

Can you see the leopard lying on the tree branch, waiting for supper to pass by?

The light is starting to dim. It’s time to return to camp and get ready for dinner, made by our fantastic staff of 8 helpers who do the cooking, washing the dishes, washing and ironing our dirty clothes, setting up and taking down camp every three nights, making our beds and putting hot water bottles between the sheets just before we go to bed each night.

The dinners in the open air dining tent are delicious and elegant. Every dietary need is accommodated—somehow. The staff is friendly and gracious and never short on smiles.

Night comes to the Delta. We crawl into our tents and listen to the animals making their unique and sometimes scary sounds in the night—sometimes too near for comfort.

Before and after dinner we sit around the campfire and tell stories. David assures us that we’re in for some more excitement tomorrow with the leopard and lion tracking.

Our routine involves being woken up by the staff at 5:30 in the cold and dark morning. The wake up person pours warm water into our little canvas basins suspended from poles in front of our tents. We put on our headlamps and quickly wash up, get dressed and prepare our gear for the day and then grab a cup of coffee and head to the fire to talk about the sounds we heard in the night—including snoring sounds made by two-legged creatures—and our plans for the day.

David is keen on tracking the same leopardess that we saw last night. I am amazed that he thinks he can find her again. I soon discover that David and Peace have such an intimate understanding of the wildlife here that they know how to think like the animals that they are tracking and can find them no matter how well they are camouflaged.

Sure enough! David found the leopardess well camouflaged in the tall grasses, slinking around trying to get a decent meal.

She must be really starving because she’s stalking a squirrel—a mere hors d’oeuvre for such a big animal.

Now it’s time for her to go all out to find a filling meal. Squirrels are like eating candy. Intent on her mission, she completely ignores our safari vehicle only a few yards from her.

The leopardess is right next to our vehicle, up close and personal. As long as we stay in the vehicle, we are of absolutely no significance to her.

David says he knows the leopardess well since she was a small cub. He tracked the mother for years. Whilst all the leopards look roughly the same to me, David and Peace recognize each one of them by the markings on their bodies, along with any scars or other signs of injury.

After David temporarily took his focus off the leopardess, we spotted a cluster of zebra.

 June 17th we get a special surprise, a ride in a mokoro, formerly a dugout canoe, now made of fiberglass to save the trees, propelled forward by a long pole that reaches the floor of the Khwai River.

The mokoro men poled our canoes silently around the watery marsh land. The experience was mystical as we floated past the wildlife—including a python snake in the rushes.

Female version of Ernest Hemingway—without the rifle—standing next to a hippopotamus with a telltale hole in his skull where he had most likely been gored by a competing male to win the favor of the females.

Joanie and Gordie are under the spell of the primordial scene surrounding us.

As we silently moved through the water a very large family of elephants appeared for their morning drink.

After the bull elephant walked out into the water to look us over, he saw that we were not a threat and then ignored us and watched over his family as they drank. After drinking, a big commotion ensued when a baby elephant walked off with the wrong family and then freaked out and started racing around frantically  looking for her mommy. The bull elephant responded to the commotion by raising his trunk and loudly trumpeting.

Hippopotamus eating grass. It’s surprising to find them openly eating in full view. They like to hide when they’re on land and feel most comfortable in the water.

We won’t be going into these waters with crocodiles and hippos waiting in the water. All the little faces you see in the picture with the frog-like eyes are enormous hippos.

Do you think this hippo is roaring for joy? Or is he simply letting the other males know that he is the boss?

June 18th. Today we move our camp to Savuti, part of the vast Chobe reserve where we’ll remain for the next three nights. Stay tuned for amazing close up views of some very impressive animals, like wart hogs, cape buffalo, wildebeests, kudu, baboons, monkeys, lots of lions, giraffes, zebras, and elephants. Some of the photos will be taken with real cameras by fellow travelers who have generously offered to take some shots for me. Here’s a preview of what you’ll see—in the case below they are simply tracks:

Tracks of a large male lion in our camping area.

This male lion gorged himself into a stupor from eating much of a large antelope called an Eland. The rest of his family is passed out as well. The all have abdomens that look like they will burst.

I hope you will continue to travel with me. It makes  me happy thinking that I’m bringing this once-in-a-lifetime trip to you virtually.


Comments

Africa—Okavango Delta — 73 Comments

  1. Thanks so much for taking us on your adventure! What a treat to live vicariously through your blog posts! Happy 70th!

    • Thanks so much for your comment, Esha. I know you and your family would have LOVED this experience. When do we get to see your photos of your time in Kenya? At open mic on Saturday? Much love and hugs to my dear neighbor and friends, Erica

  2. The shear amount of exotic life is ‘other worldly’. What a thrill! Thank you so much for sending some of it my way.

    • It was indeed other worldly. I felt like I was walking around in pre-history. Everything seemed primordial. xxox e

  3. Dearest Erica. Soooooo wonderful to be sharing your journey with you. Gracias, I feel like I’m there! Happiest 70th Birthday. Mucho love. Stay well & safe.

    • I wish you were here with me, Sherie. I know you’d love this experience. So glad that you’re with me virtually. Love you, Erica

  4. Happy 70th Erica and thank you for sharing this adventure with us.
    Such beautiful landscapes and amazing animals.
    Africa is lucky to have you walk upon her.
    Sending you much love,
    Ellie and Michael

    • Thank you for your good wishes. It makes me happy knowing that you and Michael are traveling with me—virtually. Love you, Erica

  5. Liebe Erica
    Welch ein großartiges Erlebnis und noch dazu ein besonderer „ Runder Geburtstag“
    Du bist so sehr unternehmungslustig und ich bewundeee dich sehr.
    War selbst vor einigen Jahren auf Safari in Tanzania, aber kein Vergleich mit deinem
    Abenteuer.
    Sende dir ein großes Bussi aus Santa Fe !
    Lore

    • Danke, liebe Lore, für deine schöne Nachricht. Ich vermutete schon, dass Du auf einer Safari in Afrika warst. Wir beide haben einen Abenteuergeist. Ich bin jetzt in Südafrika. Ich kann tatsächlich einige Afrikaans verstehen, weil es so sehr wie Deutsch ist. Bis bald! Ich schicke dir einen Kuss aus Afrika.

  6. Wow, Erica… you have brought us to an amazing place… Thank you for sharing this beautiful adventure. Happy Birthday to our dearest… and can’t wait to have you home to hear all the stories in person!!

    • I can’t wait to see you, Heidi. I wish so much you and Zev were on the trip with me. Much love always, Rickie

  7. Erica,
    I am so happy for you being on safari and turning 70. As always, you look fantastic and you are an inspiration for all of us!
    Love,
    Grace

  8. A happy birthday and much gratitude for the chance to journey with you vicariously on these magnificent adventures. Big love

  9. So thrilled for you — love that we both celebrated our 70ths on safari!
    Your fotos are fabulous- I knew they would be! Can’t wait to celebrate you in person. Enjoy the rest of your wonderful adventure— Love, nita

    • It’s just amazing that we both celebrated our 70th on safari!! I can’t think of a better way to mark this passage. I thought of you everyday during those 10 days in the bush, thinking that maybe we had been seeing some of the exact same leopards and lions!! Thanks for the encouragement with the iPhone photography. It certainly has its limitations, but took some pretty good shots when the animals were super close to our vehicle. Much love, E

  10. Thrilling to sit here on Maui and read about your African adventures, dear Erica..I feel like I am right there with you. my favorite Photo is the closeup of the magnificent leopardess. How fortunate you are to get this experience of being so close to her. Take good care of yourself and savor every minute, as you I know you are! Your spunk is impressive…! Lots of Love, Christine

    • I wish you and Kenn were with me on the trip. I know you’d just love seeing all these magnificent animals in their natural environment. It’s totally wondrous. Like being in the Garden of Eden. Much love to you, dear Christine

  11. Hi Erica. We don’t know each other. You are a “friend of a friend” of one of my friends. I think that would make you a friend thrice removed!? My friend Karen M. and your friend spent time together on an elephant adventure in Tailand a couple of years ago. Your friend sent Karen your blog and she sent it to me because I love Africa. Three years ago I went to Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. We also went in the Mokoro canoes in the Okavango Delta and stayed at Chobe lodge. Last summer for my 70th birthday Karen joined me and four other friends on a trip to Kenya and Tanzania. It was just as powerful an experience the second time around. Thank you for you blog and pictures, it brought the joy of Africa front and center. Peace, blessings and happy travels to you.

    • What a lovely surprise!! I understand why you went back again. Africa can really grow on a person. I’m glad my photos brought back happy memories for you. All the best, Erica

  12. Hi Erica! Belated happy birthday! Your stories and images bring back fond memories of my trip to Botswans 18 years ago with my 90-year-old dad and two brothers. We were in the same area and saw many of the same sights but were not roughing it. Some of the game camps we stayed at are now more than $1500. per person per night!
    Stay safe and keep sharing your magical adventure!
    Love,
    Kenn

    • Kenn, I thought of you and your dad frequently, knowing that I was seeing what you had seen with your dad. I loved hearing the stories about your father’s frequent safari trips. Much love to you, Kenn

  13. We all continue to applaud you Erica dear…
    Thanks for taking us along in your adventures….
    The leopardess appeals greatly to me,
    Especially Since my totem animal is the dark black leopard ….
    A birthday celebration forever to remember!!!
    We love you!
    Di and Erik

  14. You continue to be an inspiration to us all….
    May your adventurousness, curiosity, bravado and sheer determination,
    Contunue to Carry us all along too….
    Thank you dear, dear Erica…..
    We love you!
    Di and Erik

  15. Happy Birthday, dear Erica!!!

    Your trip is amazing! I never used a toilet you are describing- an adventure itself. It must be fantastic to be so close to these gorgeous animals. I love to travel with you!!! Thank you! Love, Traude

    • As you can imagine, I would have preferred to pee outside, but it was too dangerous to go outside the tent at night because of all the wild animals walking through our campsite. I love that you’re traveling with me, virtually speaking. Hugs to you, dear Traude. Erica

    • Happy Birthday to you, dear Chris! I’m sure Joanie will be telling you all about the trip. It was truly amazing. Love you, E

  16. So amazing. Happy 70th Birthday and love to you. I am totally entranced by the animals and your beautiful descriptions of your adventure. Love, Patty

    • Just barely!! It was certainly worth any hardship I had to endure. It’s truly been a fantastic experience. Two of my fellow travelers were born in Cuba, like you. And like you, they are delightful.

  17. Beautiful and well selected photos – I don’t know where to begin to draft my own travel tale!! Loved getting to know a kindred spirit of the wild in the wilds of Botswana.

    • Thank you, Meg. I feel the same way about you. I’m your fan. In regard to where to begin writing your own tale, I can share with you what I do when I get stuck and don’t know where to begin. I imagine that I’m sitting at my kitchen table with a close friend who asks me “How was your trip?”And then I just start writing—as though I’m talking to my friend. I know that each person has to find their own method for writing, but that’s what works for me. I’m looking forward to joining up with you during our layover in Amsterdam. Love, E

  18. What an adventure. You look so happy. The photos of the animals are breathtaking. Ann and I got together on on June 14 and sang happy birthday to you. You have a way of making the reader feel like they are there with you. Safe travels LOve, Willa

    • You sang happy birthday to me on the 14th?? That’s so sweet of you Willa. I’m touched by how thoughtful you are. Don’t worry–I’m being really careful and am aware of my limitations. Love you, Erica

  19. Awesome trip and photos. Love following you on your adventures. May good health, safe travel, and joy continue for you all.

  20. What an adventure! Erica, Thanks so much for bringing the stories and the photos to us who don’t travel much anymore! The closeup photos are incredibly beautiful! What a way to spend your 70th. You are truly a wise and wondrous woman!! Ox Satya

  21. WOW! Amazing ,Beautiful….Thank You for sharing this adventure !Again I feel like I am there in some way.Looking forward to the next episode !Do the crocodiles bother the hippos?

    Safe travels,Dorothy

    • It makes me smile when you say you feel like you are right there. That’s why I write these blogs so i can share the experience. Nothing threatens the hippos except humans. Their skin is terribly tough and impervious to attack. Even the lions leave them alone.

  22. Hiya Erica….this is so great, gives me a wonderful heads’ up for next year…thanks so much…oh Africa!! am going to Spain and Morocco in November’ and Happy birthday…
    love jean

  23. I really enjoyed your photos and comments. What a wonderful adventure! Thank you for sharing! I may have to do this trip in the near future.

    • It’s definitely a trip of a lifetime. In my intro blog post called “Africa Bound,” I gave contact information.

  24. OMG – What an adventure, Erica. I loved that close up of the leopardess. She looks like she is meditating.

  25. Wonderful, pictures, Erica. I now you are loving every minute – how could you not? I felt so at home there. Want to go back and especially where you are now. I remember the Chobe Lodge well. I remember all of that amazingly beautiful country. How could anyone forget. Ah, to have been Baroness Von Blixen without al her problems. So happy for you, Erica

    • I know you’d recognize the landscape. Yes, it is certainly unforgettable. I know I will be dreaming about this place for years to come. It grows on you.

  26. What a great experience you’re having! You’re brave to do this considering all the physical issues you’ve had over time….I’d be too much of a wimp. Enjoy, and keep sending pics please.

    • You are right, Benette. With all my impairments and sensitivities, I do indeed pay a price for these wonderful adventures. But it’s worth it, even though it takes some time to recover after I’m home.

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