Antarctica—The Fateful Knock on the Door

Soon I will be leaving on a trip to Antarctica. The idea of traveling to Antarctica originated with a knock on my door—the proverbial knock of opportunity—and then the mere idea became a real possibility after a series of unusual and unforeseen circumstances.

One day last fall, I finished my work seeing patients at around five in the afternoon—about an hour earlier than usual. While in the kitchen chopping vegetables in preparation for dinner, I heard a barely audible knock on the door in the laundry room. The door leads outside to the carport. No one that I know uses that door.

When the house was first built, people off the street sometimes knocked on that particular back door, asking me for money or to use my phone or to give them a ride someplace. I stopped answering the occasional knocks and left the door permanently locked.

The gentle knocking persisted. Intrigued, I went out the back door in the kitchen and looked over the garden gate up toward the door in the carport. I saw a man about my age wearing Bermuda shorts and carrying a backpack. My curiosity took over.

“Hello. Are you looking for someone?”

The man spoke in a crisp upper class British accent, “Oh. I’m so sorry. Um. I’m actually lost. I’m, um, looking for two people called Jamey and Esha.”

Now more curious than ever, I said, “Oh. Jamey and Esha are my next door neighbors. What do you need them for?”

He answered, “Well, I’m giving a talk at the Lensic Theater tomorrow night and they offered to put me up for the night while I was in town.”

“Would you like to come in for a cup of tea before I bring you to my neighbors’ house?”

We sat on the couch in my living room, sipping tea. When I asked him what his name was, he said, clearly enunciating each word, “My name is Robert Swan. You can google me.”

“If I google you, what will I discover?” I asked.

Robert Swan, O.B.E. (Most Excellent Order of the British Empire) told me that he was the first and only person to reach both poles. He had skied 700 miles to the Arctic and 900 miles to Antarctica with a few friends—without the support of radios and helicopters.

Robert Swan was so moved by what he saw in Antarctica that he felt a strong need to do something to protect this last frontier of pristine wilderness. He formed an organization called “Antarctica 2041.” The purpose of his organization is to raise awareness about the fate of Antarctica after the multi-national treaty expires in 2041 when Antarctica will be up for grabs and could suffer the fate of oil exploration and mining.

Robert has been giving talks around the country about his organization, while at the same time raising funds to support his endeavors to protect the environment.

Here is one of Robert Swan’s several TED talks:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCUeX7XdzW0

When I looked at some of Robert’s other online videos, I realized that the trips he leads are composed mostly of young environmental activists from all over the world, many of whom have raised money through donations or from working and saving their money for years in order to take this trip of a lifetime.

I think you’ll enjoy this video of what the trip is really like:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yY2nY9aC7tE&feature=youtu.be&spfreload=1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsGmnrSm6uQ

After texting back and forth the next day, I boldly asked Robert if I could go on his trip—even though I’m 68 years old. I suspect that he might have “googled” me to find out who I was. He answered, “We’re the same age. Yes, absolutely you can come on the trip. With all your wilderness, mountaineering, and medical experiences, you would be a good role model for some of the young women.”

Thrilled about the possibility of going to Antarctica, I texted him, back. “BTW, I forgot to ask the price of the trip.” When he told me that the 10 days at sea would cost $12,000, I told him that, sadly, I would not be going due to the cost. I immediately dropped the idea. Robert texted me back saying, “I understand. I have a feeling you’ll find a way to go with us.”

A few weeks later a most amazing series of events happened that started during a phone consultation with one of my patients, Michael, a businessman who lives in Seattle. Michael is the “paterfamilias” of three generations that I have been treating for the last fifteen years. The extended family lives in Portland, Seattle, and Chicago.

At the conclusion of our phone appointment, Michael said, “I really like your blogs—especially your travel blogs. You haven’t been on any trips for a while. Are you planning anything exciting in the near future?”

I told Michael that I had wanted to go to Antarctica, but that it was too expensive. He asked how much the trip would have cost. I told him the amount. He responded, “Yeah. That’s a lot of money.” We said good-bye and I didn’t think anything more about our conversation.

A week later, on my way to eat dinner at our community house, I stopped by the mailbox to check for mail. I saw a thick manila envelope from Michael. The envelope contained an eloquent letter from him, thanking me for helping him and his family with their complex medical problems over the years, along with letters from his wife and from his grown children—drawings from the grandchildren. I wondered why the whole family had decided to thank me at the same time. The letters felt like a eulogy—like something read at a memorial service. Maybe they think I’m going to die.

As I opened the envelope wider so that I could put the letters, card, and drawings back, I noticed another small piece of paper that I had overlooked. I reached in and found a check for $12,000. On the note, Michael wrote that he was looking forward to my next travel blog.

When I phoned to express my stunned gratitude, Michael said that for a few years he and his wife had wanted to give me a special gift but didn’t know what to give that would be meaningful to me. So, when he heard about the Antarctica trip, he had a family meeting. The whole family agreed that funding my trip would be a good idea. I reminded him that he had already given me a gift a few years ago—my first smart phone.

Life is full of surprises—sometimes very pleasant surprises. I’m still reeling from the wonderful shock.

The departure date is in a few days. My first stop will be Buenos Aires where I’ll spend four days visiting with an old friend, Miguel Di Donato, whom I met forty years ago while climbing Aconcagua—the highest mountain in the western hemisphere at 23,000 feet.

In Buenos Aires I’ll eventually meet up with my travel group and then take a light plane to Ushuaia, the southernmost town in the world—the gateway for ships to Antarctica—and the capital of Tierra del Fuego.

I remember Ushuaia well from my travels. When I completed my two years of service in the Peace Corps in Ecuador, I sold the Pan Am airline ticket that I had been provided and used the $600 to cover expenses while traveling throughout South America for six months.

Six hundred dollars was considered a substantial chunk of money in those days in South America. While in the Peace Corps, I earned $120 a month.

I stayed at a youth hostel while I visited Ushuaia and hiked in the rugged and stunningly beautiful countryside surrounding the town. Although the water was freezing, I swam for a few minutes in the Beagle Channel just for the thrill of it.

After I dried myself off and got dressed, I stood on the southernmost point of land and looked out toward Antarctica and vowed that I would go there some day. As I stood watching, I saw a ship come into the port and the passengers debark. When the captain walked passed me, I asked him if it would be possible for me to get a job in Antarctica. He said, “Certainly. We’d be glad to have you.” With excitement in my voice, I asked what kinds of jobs would be available for me. He said that for any job I took, I’d have to sign a yearlong contract. With that news, my interest vanished. I needed to eventually get home and see my family.

In the youth hostel, I met a friendly young man who had taken a year off for travel before going to medical school. We spent a day or two hiking together and then we went our separate ways. That man came briefly back into my life thirty-five years later.

My brother, John, a maritime attorney in Seattle, had been representing a fisherman who had been injured on a ship due to negligence. He needed to consult with a doctor who knew about the kinds of injuries suffered by his client.

As he discussed the case with the physician, he noted the pictures of South America on the wall in his office. John remarked that his sister had served in the Peace Corps in Ecuador in the 1970s and then traveled around the continent. The physician said that in 1976 he had met a woman in the youth hostel in Ushuaia who had worked in the Peace Corps and had just finished climbing Aconcagua. John asked if he remembered her name. He answered, “Erica Elliott.”

John gave the physician my email address. We were in touch for a few months, reliving our brief time together, marveling at how small the world was and how unlikely that our paths would ever cross again. Then we gradually drifted apart, swept away by our respective lives.

From Ushuaia, we will embark on the cruise ship, Endeavor, and sail around the northern Antarctic Peninsula and around one or two little islands, for a total of ten days. There will be plenty of time for exploring on land and looking at the wildlife. I signed up for the sea kayaking option. I also signed up for a second option—camping one night alone on the ice, with full gear provided. Sadly, the company that organizes the trip had to cancel that option due to “soft ice.”

As I look back, I marvel at the unlikely series of events that led to this trip to Antarctica. The first step began with the knock on the door in the laundry room. If I hadn’t finished my work early that particular day, I would not have been in the kitchen to hear the fateful knock on the door.

Some of you worry when I go on a trip, given my past history. I will be extra cautious. Rest assured that there is no chance that I’ll be eaten by a polar bear because there aren’t any polar bears in Antarctica. But, there’s a chance that I might be abducted by an emperor penguin.

Fortunately these three ICE officials will not be enforcing the ban on foreigners visiting their country. Photo by Quark Expedition’s Passenger C King from 2016


Comments

Antarctica—The Fateful Knock on the Door — 81 Comments

  1. Magical and momentous, Erica. I loved every word of your story. Such a powerful reminder there is magic within and all around us – if only we remember to be open to it and invite it into our lives. Have a glorious adventure, dear soul. I know you will. Boundless blessings and love, Elsa

    • Thank you, Cathy. I’m sitting in the Dallas airport, waiting for my flight to Buenos Aires. I’m so excited about returning to Argentina after all these years—and the Antarctica!!! Ut was wonderful seeing you the other day——as always. Much love, Erica

  2. This sounds wonderful! What an amazing life you have! Thank you so very much for writing your experiences. I have learned a lot from them. Life is precious, but it is also beautiful!

  3. Hi Erica Dear One – You are an inspiration – when one says Yes, the Universe opens all kinds of doors! May you travels be full of Wonder, full of Beauty, full of Grace and full of Awe and All Divine Blessings. Love to you, Mariel

  4. Oh Dear Erica,
    How excited I am for you. I was in Ushuaia last year and thought about Antarctica too. Maybe I’ll follow in your footsteps if I can find something half the price. : )
    Sending you off with such regard, health and love.
    My best,
    Sandi

    • You are quite the adventure girl yourself, Sandi. I wish I could take you with me. Thank you for all of your good wishes for my send-off. Love you, Erica

  5. Your magical life blossoms and opens yet again to deep soul enriching adventures! I love your Ju Ju, and the way it finds your hearts desires. Unstoppable and powerful. You always fill my heart with possibilities and optimistic expansion beyond the visible moment. Please may your adventure be all you imagine and much more! Please take good care and I will be looking forward to your stories you write so elequently..
    Love and light dear Erica,
    Magda

  6. Erica,
    Thank you for introducing robert swan to me… loved his ted talk, his passion for adventure, his global vision and commitment to renewable energy! An inspiration ..makes me feel that at 68 there is no limit to our dreams and actions!
    What an amazing trip you will have.. be safe on this journey and I will look forward to your writings.
    Love,
    Margaret

    • I’m so glad you got to see Robert Swan’s TED talk. He is an amazing man with a big vision to help the world. Thank you for your good wishes. With love, Erica

  7. Travel safely, Erica– am thrilled for you! The ice, penguins, the adventure. — magical. Enjoy❄! Look forward to hearing about your experience~~~ Love, nita

  8. Dearest Erica,

    May each step of your journey continue to reveal yet another ray of the Great Mystery in your life and in the lives of those you touch.

    Love Deborah

    “Each man had only one genuine vocation – to find the way to himself….His task was to discover his own destiny – not an arbitrary one – and to live it out wholly and resolutely within himself. Everything else was only a would-be existence, an attempt at evasion, a flight back to the ideals of the masses, conformity and fear of one’s own inwardness.” ~ Hermann Hesse

    • Thank you, Deborah, for sharing those beautiful words of Hermann Hesse. It’s so true that the real journey in life is the one that leads us to our destiny—-to our true,authentic selves. You and and Daniel are certainly on that road. With much love and admiration, Erica

  9. You are one of the most extraordinary people I have ever met, dear Erica! What a powerful example of intention and metaphysics this is. As a very young woman, you set a clear desire and intention to go to Antarctica. From that point forward the universe was getting ready to roll this wish back to you. You cooperated by answering the knock on your door -How symbolic!-And then inviting the man standing there to come in for a cup of tea instead of just sending him off to your neighbor. Also, your good works in helping the family who are sponsoring this for so many years has come back full circle to bless you back . What a marvelous, marvelous story. I can’t wait to see this in your forthcoming book! Ken and I will be holding you in our prayers for a healthy and fantastic trip. Bravo!

    • I always love to hear your perspective, Christine, because you’ve been around the metaphysical block and know the landscape. I appreciate that you and Ken will hold me in your prayers. With much love, Erica

  10. Oh, Erica, tears in my eyes and feeling so much joy for you. Have a beautiful trip. Some photographer friends of ours made a trip to Antarctica and informed us of the constant smell of penquin poop……maybe take noseplugs! Love, Susan

    • Oh. I never thought about penguin poop. Hmm. Thanks for the warning. And thank you for your good wishes, Susan. Love you, Erica

  11. A beautiful beginning to what everyone who knows you prays will be a further deepening of your already incredible and “deep” self, Erica. Along with the others, I wish you Bon Voyage and as they say in Yiddish: “Zei Gezunt and Kim Gezunt” which in our family always meant: “Go in good health and return in good health.” Love always, Daniel

    • Thank you for your beautiful wishes, Daniel. It’s a treat to hear from you. That Yiddish phrase is one that I hear a lot from my Jewish patients. Yiddish is easy for me to understand because it’s so similar to German. In fact, I thought that the last part of that expression was “Kim Heim Gezunt.” “Heim” means home in both Yiddish and German. (I think that I was Jewish in one of my former lives.) Much love to you, dear Daniel, Erica

  12. Great story Erica. I can honestly say I know of no one who has led a more cursed and a more blessed life!! A life of surrender brings everything under the sun.
    Can’t wait to hear about the trip.

    • Cursed and blessed with everything under the sun. That’s a pretty accurate description, John. Although, the cursed part often turned into a blessing in disguise—a painful blessing, preceded by lots of suffering. I always appreciate hearing what you have to say. I value your thoughts and impressions. Love, Erica

  13. beloved erica… what an amaaazing story……. this journey was destined, it sounds like, froIm a long time back. I’m so happy for you.. for this magical trip of a lifetime. Thanks to Michael and family and all your many angels along the way.. May they accompany you and keep you safe, and bring you back for Barrett’s birthday on March 22nd. See you then!
    love from sisveet

  14. Erica, what a beautiful example of how the Universe works. I am so happy for you. And, bless Michael. I can’t want for the coming blogs. Much, much love, Anna

  15. I believe that synchronicity is when we conspire with the universe to participate unconditionally in being connected to ourself and to something bigger.
    I love your story and wish you all the joys, wonderments, and amazements on this adventure.
    Safe travels.
    Pam

    • I appreciate your comments about synchronicity, Pam. It appears to be so magical, but, as you say, it probably reveals something about our connection with ourselves and something bigger. Love, Erica

  16. Many Blessings to you Erica – you are truly an amazing and courageous human
    walking on our planet. Thank you for sharing your journey.

  17. This IS totally a GOD thing!!!!!
    I read all the above comments..
    Our hearts are also with you erica dear,
    Have a wonderful, enriching, heavenly time on earth….
    In the antartica…
    WOW!! Talk about divine synchrosity!!!
    We love and cherish you,
    And thank you for everything you have done for us…

  18. Erica. Your journey from underworld to heaven and everywhere in between is most amazing! Love following your blogs!
    Nothing confirms faith in spirit like real life of an authentic person – much love! Enjoy the trip! Inessa

    • Underworld to heaven. That’s well said. You know all about that yourself. I think we’re on parallel paths. Thank you for your good wishes. With love, Erica

  19. Hi Erica,

    So happy this trip has worked out for you! No one deserves it more, and no one else is likely to glean as much from the experience as you! I also think the young people on board will be inspired by your wisdom and life story.

    Have a great trip!
    Kirby

  20. The ‘ICE QUEEN COMETH!’ Watch out, oh ye Emperors (and Empressados): you will be ogled and smothered with love by our amazing envoy to your kingdom of ice… Buen viaje, salue, y suenõs, you luminous journeyer. ❤?❤

  21. Dearest Erica, your story is so amazing – a story, that there is an undercurrent in our life to be trusted, there is generosity and gratefulness right here and now, that life can be lived in fullness and it is wonderful! Your courageousness and warm and open heart, excepting everything (do you know the poem of Rilke – Gott spricht zu jedem nur eh er ihn macht……
    lass dir alles geschehen: Schönheit und Schrecken, man muss nur gehen: kein Gefühl ist das fernste, lass dich von mir nicht trennen, nah ist das Land das sie Leben nennen….) is an example for everybody of us.
    I wish you a wonderful experience, warm hug and love, Traude

    • I love that quote from Rilke about accepting all that life offers–the beauty with the horrors—letting no feeling separate us from God. Thank you, Traude. You live that way yourself. With love, Erica

    • For those interested in the Poem:
      Rainer Maria Rilke Gott spricht zu jedem nur eh er ihn macht

      God Speaks to Each

      God speaks to each of us before we are,
      before he’s formed us — then, in cloudy speech,
      but only then, he speaks these words to each
      and silently walks with us from the dark:

      Driven by your senses, dare
      to the edge of longing. Grow,
      like a fire’s shadow casting glare,
      behind assembled things, so you can spread
      their shapes on me as clothes.
      Don’t leave me bare.

      Let it all happen to you: beauty and dread.
      Simply go — no feeling is too much —
      and only this way can we stay in touch.
      Near here is the land
      that they call life.

      You’ll know when you arrive
      by how real it is.

      Give me your hand.

      *

      translation © 2001 Leonard Cottrell. All rights reserved.

      • Wow! Thank you, David, for the translation. I didn’t know you were a Rilke fan. Many facets make up who you are. Love, Erica

  22. What a full and worldly life you lead. Your courage and eagerness to live a life of adventure and discovery is inspiring. -Wishing you calm seas and magical times.

  23. What an amazing story! No one deserves this more than you. Have a wonderful time, but remember to watch out for those Emperor penguins!
    Safe travels,
    Kay

    • Haha. I’ll be on the lookout for those guys in the white shirt and black tuxedo. They look friendly, but you never know. Much love, Erica

    • Thank you, Dorothy!! I’ll be sending pictures during the trip—if there is internet connection on the ship. Love, Erica

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